Mulch is an important step in landscaping health. It’s one of the most important tasks when it comes to getting your landscape beds ready for the year . In this comprehensive guide to mulching, we will walk you through all the basics, including the best time to lay down mulch and how to spread it properly.
Our landscaping crew recently installed mulch under a tree for a property in Kansas City.
What is Mulch and Why Do You Need It?
You’ve probably heard the term “mulch” one time too many. But exactly what is it?
Mulch is a protective layer usually containing organic matter, such as bark, leaves, and compost, and inorganic elements, such as stone and rubber. It creates an effective barrier on the soil surface.
Soil temperature regulation, especially for providing a warm environment for seeds to germinate
Visual appeal
Organic vs. Inorganic Mulch
Most mulch is made from either organic or inorganic materials, and each has its pros and cons. The table below provides a brief overview of each one.
Organic vs. Inorganic Mulch: Pros & Cons
Organic Mulch
Inorganic Mulch
Pros
Provides additional nutrition to the soil as it decomposesCreates a natural look in your yardMore affordable
Much longer lastingComes in various textures and colors for a more modern look.Lower maintenance
Cons
Must be replenished every few yearsWeeds are more likely to break through the barrierNot ideal for extreme slopes
Higher upfront costAbsorbs heat and will dry out the soil underneath faster.Doesn’t decompose.
Common Types of Organic Mulch
Looking for organic mulch but not sure which type to get? Here are some common types of organic mulch and their characteristics:
Shredded bark: Common option that comes in a variety of textures and colors. Breaks down faster than other options on the list.
Wood Chips:Needs to be top-dressed every two to three years. Some colors use chemical dyes and can be harmful.
Leaf: Naturally provided by trees! Highly beneficial for the soil.
Grass Clipping: Provided naturally by your lawn. Save them after mowing. Grass creates a thin layer and dries out faster.
Straw: Lightweight and more affordable. Commonly used around fruits and vegetables, but not for curb appeal.
Common Types of Inorganic Mulch
Inorganic mulch can be used as a top-layer with organic mulch, or as a standalone mulch option. Here are five of the most common types of inorganic mulch:
Gravel, pebbles, river rocks: Various colors and textures, suitable around driveways, pathways, and hardscape.
Black plastic landscape tarp: Usually used as an underlayer and topped with another type of inorganic mulch. However, we severely recommend against using landscape tarp anywhere at all.
Landscape fabric: Basically an upgrade from landscape tarp. Also needs a top layer.
Rubber: Sturdy, stable, retains heat, and weather-proof. Good for outdoor activities, but the zinc contained in the rubber can suppress plant growth.
Newly installed mulch at one of our clients’ properties.
When is the Best Time to Mulch
Installing mulch in mid-to-late spring will yield the best results for plant growth in the new year. You should also install mulch in the fall to protect roots in the soil from Kansas City’s biting winter.
If you are planting new crops and plants, add mulch immediately after planting, regardless of the season. Depending on the type of mulch you use, you may also need to replenish it every few years to ensure the desired two-to-three-inch depth.
Where Should You Spread the Mulch
Technically speaking, mulch can be installed on top of any exposed soil, depending on your goal. Common places to spread mulch include:
Gardens and flower beds
Under trees and around shrubs
Pathways and driveways
Landscaping borders
How to Install Mulch In Your Yard
There are some key points to consider when installing mulch in your yard. These include:
Depth: You should ensure two to three inches of top-layer mulch.
Dumping: Dump mulch in small piles throughout the installation area using a wheelbarrow.
Evenness: Use a pitchfork or throw to spread the mulch evenly.
Edging: You want a sharp edge around the area to hold the mulch firmly.
Final touch: Use a rake to create the final, smooth surface you desire.
Of course, you can choose to handle mulching yourself. However, since mulching is an important step in the ongoing process of landscape maintenance, leaving it to a landscape maintenance company would be far more effective and beneficial.
Expect to pay between $125 to $175 per cubic yard for mulch installation without site preparation. More comprehensive mulching services, including edging, weeding, debris cleanup, and pre-emergent, cost about $1,200 per season, for an average size home.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What should you do before mulch?
Prepare the area by removing existing weeds, cleaning up any debris and trash, and adding soil supplements (compost, fertilizer, etc). You can install a separate weed barrier, or let the mulch do its job.
2. What is the 3-3-3 rule for mulch?
The 3-3-3 stands for “three inches, three feet, three inches.” Specifically, it means to install 3 inches of mulch in a ring approximately 3 feet in radius. When installing around bushes and trees, keep mulch three inches away from the base to form a donut shape.
3. Where should you not put mulch?
Avoid “volcano” mulching, which means dumping mulch directly onto tree roots and shrub bases, creating a small mound. Volcanoes can cause trunk rot, girdling roots, and deprive your plants of oxygen. They can also lead to pest infestation.
After you’ve fertilized your newly seeded lawn, watering is the next step to ensure proper grass growth. Overwatering can drown or wash away your new seeds, whereas under-watering can kill the seeds in drought, especially with Kansas City’s heat. This article will tell you how often you should water a newly seeded lawn, a reseeded path, or an overseeded lawn, how long to water each time, and the factors that may affect your watering schedule.
How Often Should I Water Grass Seeds?
Generally speaking, you should water new grass seeds two to four times a day during the germination period, and once a day after germination until the grass has sprouted.
Once the grass has sprouted, you need to adjust your watering schedule accordingly:
Weeks 1-2: once a day with a 1.5-inch soil moisture depth.
Weeks 3-4: once a day, with an additional watering during hot and dry days.
Weeks 5-6: Give your seeded area a 40-minute soak every other day, then 2 to 3 times a week.
Weeks 7-8: 1 to 1.5 inches of water once or twice a week
The best time to water a newly seeded lawn is early morning. The cooler temperature allows moisture to penetrate the soil before evaporating. Water again in late afternoon or early evening.
How Long Should I Water Each Time?
If this is your first time watering the seeds, water for 5 to 10 minutes, then switch to a mist nozzle to prevent washing seeds away. Afterward, aim to keep the top 1.5 inches of your lawn moist via manual watering using a garden hose.
Factors Affecting the Watering Schedule
The watering schedule for a newly seeded lawn depends on the following factors:
Size of the lawn: The size of your lawn can affect your watering frequency. For larger lawns, you may want to break it into smaller sections and develop a rotating watering schedule.
Type of grass: Cool-season grass requires more watering during hot weather. Warm-season grass needs less water in the fall as they enter dormancy.
Soil quality: If your soil doesn’t have the best drainage, you will water less.
Climate: Kansas City’s heat waves can arrive early and unexpectedly. During high heat periods, you might need to water a little extra to protect your new grass.
How to Water an Overseeded Lawn
Overseeding is a common method used to increase the grass density for an existing patch by planting new seeds on an established turf. When watering an overseeded lawn, ensure the topsoil is moist enough for the seeds to germinate, while also providing the established grass with sufficient water.
For the topsoil, gently water twice a day for 5 to 10 minutes each time. Then, deep water once a week to ensure the existing turf gets enough water.
How Often Should I Water a Reseeded Bare Patch
Water the reseeded patch two to four times a day with one-eighth to a quarter inch of water until germination. Then, slowly reduce the watering frequency. Don’t forget to water the rest of the lawn following your regular schedule.
How Often Should I Water a Newly Seeded Lawn
Water the lawn two to four times a day, 5 to 10 minutes each time. Continue with this schedule until the seeds germinate, then reduce watering to ensure a 1.5-inch moisture depth.
With proper watering, your seeds can begin to grow in 10 to 14 days. Some grasses may take longer to germinate, ranging from 14 to 21 days.
Nobody will complain about a refreshing, vibrant lawn as the weather becomes nicer. To ensure you have a lush lawn come summer, proper seeding and fertilization are a must. One common question we receive from people is whether you can fertilize and seed your grass at the same time.
Generally, you shouldn’t fertilize and seed simultaneously because fertilizers can harm grass seeds. Ideally, you’d want a local lawn and turf care company to handle these tasks. But if you’re doing it yourself, below are some fundamentals you should know.
Best Types of Grasses for Kansas City
Situated in the mid-west, Kansas City has a weather that allows warm- and cool-weather grass to survive. Having mixed lawn also ensures you get the most green throughout the year.
Here are 4 types of grasses that will do the best in Kansas City:
Turf-type tall fescue: A cool-season grass that thrives in full sun and is extremely drought tolerant.
Kentucky bluegrass: A resilient cool-season grass with a subtle blue hue in its dark green color. Often mixed with other grasses for texture purposes since it’s highly vulnerable to summer diseases.
Fine leaf fescue: A delicate cool-season grass that prefers a dry and shady environment.
Zoysiagrass: A warm-season grass perfect for Kansas City’s summer weather that provides a dense turf with strong heat tolerance
When to Fertilize Your Grass
The best time to fertilize your grass varies based on your grass type.
Warm-season grasses have thick, rough, and strong blades and grow the most during late spring and early summer. it’s best to fertilize right before the high temperatures hit. Apply a second layer of fertilizer after peak summer.
Cool-season grasses, on the other hand, produce thin, smooth, and soft blades. These grasses grow in the early spring and early fall, then enter dormancy for the winter. Therefore, you should fertilize heavily in the fall and lightly in early spring.
Best Fertilizers for Grass Lawns
Generally speaking, nitrogen-rich fertilizers are your safest and most effective option for warm and cool-season grasses. They come in quick- or slow-release options.
For cool-season grass, apply 1 to 2 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet. Apply treatment before peak temperature to keep your grass green and healthy. For warm-season grasses, use 3 to 4 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet. Water thoroughly to wash the grains off the grass blades and into the soil.
When to Seed Your Grass in Kansas City, Missouri
The weather in Missouri tends to stay cool until early summer (late May), with bursts of high temperatures in between. The last frost date in Missouri is typically around the end of April. Therefore, you should seed cool-weather grasses by mid-April and plant around mid-spring. As long as the soil temperature is above 50°F.
Common Mistakes When Seeding Your Grass
If you think seeding grass is as simple as throwing the seed out into the soil, you’re wrong. Here are some common mistakes you should avoid when seeding your grass:
Seeding at the wrong time: Warm- and cool-season grass seeds have different temperature and pH requirements to grow. Seeding at the wrong time could lead to poor growth.
Uneven seed application: Too many seeds in one area could suppress proper growth, whereas scattered seeding could lead to bare spots in your lawn.
Not covering the seeds up: If you leave the seeds exposed on the surface of the soil, they can get washed away or become bird food. You should gently till the area after seeding your grass.
Too much or too little water: Overwatering can drown, wash away, and underwatering can burn your new seeds.
Can You Fertilize and Seed Your Grass at the Same Time?
No, you shouldn’t fertilize and seed your grass at the same time. You should always spread the seeds first, as direct soil contact is helpful for germination. To prevent fertilizers from harming grass seeds, it is recommended to wait six to eight weeks after seeding. A good measurement is to fertilize after you notice small sprouts and use a starter fertilizer for best results
Fall is fast approaching and with it comes an opportunity to restore your lawn after the heat of summer. The Blue Crew at Royal Creations Architectural Landscaping recommend the following steps to restore your lawn.
Weed Control
When your grass is struggling and thinning out, weeds take the opportunity to grow and spread. If you are planning to overseed your grass, you cannot put a pre-emergent on your lawn because it will keep your seeds from growing. We recommend spot spraying a post-emergent spray to kill clumps of weeds. If there are just a few weeds, it is easier to just pull them up. In either case, they need to be removed before you overseed your lawn, or they will crowd the new grass out.
Mark Sprinkler Heads To Avoid Damaging Them
Flag And Adjust Sprinklers
Before going any further in your lawn restoration, it is important to mark where your sprinkler heads are so you do not rip them out when dethatching or aerating your lawn. You can buy small flags on thin wires from big box stores and nurseries and use them to mark each head. Marking them gives you a chance to repair any sprinkler heads that are damaged or don’t work properly. In addition, it is important to adjust your sprinkler to water the new seeds you are planting. If you fail to do this, your new grass will have a hard time establishing itself.
Dethatch
Thatch is a layer of dead grass, roots, and debris that builds up between the grass and the soil surface. It can form an almost impenetrable layer that keeps water, nutrients, and air from reaching the roots. Any time thatch is one inch thick or deeper, you need to remove it. Before you overseed, dethatch so your seeds can reach the soil surface and grow.
For a small yard, you can use a dethatching rake to rip out the dead grass and roots. If you have a large yard, you will want to rent a dethatching machine. Dethatching rakes work great, but they are tiring to use. After dethatching your lawn, rake the debris up and compost it or throw it away. Water your lawn until the soil is saturated with water before you move to the next step.
Aerate
Plants absorb water, nutrients, and air from the soil around them. When the soil gets compacted, these things have a hard time penetrating the surface. To fix that, you want to rent a core aerator and run it across the lawn. Watering the lawn before aerating helps the aerator get as deep as it needs to in the soil. Aerators punch holes in the soil and leave the soil they remove on your lawn in plugs. After you aerate, rake these plugs until they fall into the grass. They will dissolve the next time you water.
Overseed
The easiest way to overseed a lawn is to use a push spreader. Set the dispersal rate according to the grass seed package instructions. Walk back and forth in one direction, such as north to south, then walk back and forth in the other way, such as east to west. This provides plenty of seed everywhere in the lawn. Missing a spot leaves a thin area that does not look good.
Top Dress With Peat Moss or Compost
After you seed the lawn, spread about an inch of peat moss or compost on your lawn. Rake it in so the amendments touch the ground. This will provide the seeds with a burst of nitrogen that is slow enough releasing to avoid burning the seedlings.
Fertilize
Now is a good time to fertilize your lawn, too. Pick a fall fertilizer and spread it according to the label instructions. Cover the lawn in one direction, then in the perpendicular direction to get good coverage.
New Grass Needs More Water
Water
After you sow your seeds, top dress them, and fertilize the lawn, water the yard well. This dissolves the plugs from aerating the soil, tells the seeds to germinate, and moves the nutrients from the top dressing and fertilizing into the root zone so the grass can use them. Make sure you don’t let any water run off into the storm drain. That wastes your expensive seed, top dressing, and fertilizer and pollutes streams and rivers.
Care Guide
If this sounds like a lot of work that is because it is a lot of work. Royal Creations Architectural Landscaping can do your fall lawn restoration for you. Simply subscribe to our lawn care program and enjoy your yard. We will even leave a detailed care guide for you to follow to maximize success. Call (816) 825-2524 for the details and to sign up.
After all the great rain we have gotten this spring, everything is growing in leaps and bounds. Unfortunately, that includes the weeds. If your pre-emergent control is failing, here are the ways Royal Creations Architectural Landscaping deals with weeds.
Thriving Turf
The best defense against weeds is to maintain a thriving lawn. Most turfgrasses will crowd out weeds when they are healthy.
Pick an appropriate turf grass and plant the recommended variety. The Kansas City area is in the transition area from warm season turfgrass like Bermuda and Buffalograss to cool season turfgrasses like Kentucky bluegrasses, perennial ryegrasses, tall fescues, and fine-leaf fescues. Most lawns will be cool season turf and we typically use tall fescue for residential lawns unless there is deep shade where we may use bluegrass as an alternative.
Maintain the soil pH between 6-7
Mow, water, and fertilize properly
Control insect and disease damage
Control thatch
Aerate compacted soils
Mechanical Control
Set your lawn mower at the correct height for the species of grass you have. Frequent weekly mowing will control many types of weeds because they never get tall enough to seed. We recommend 3 ½” to 4” height on fescue lawns. If you have a few weeds in your grass, you can pull them by hand. It is harder to eradicate weeds with deep root systems by weeding by hand.
Herbicides
Sometimes the weeds are so bad you must use an herbicide to kill them. Care should be taken when choosing a herbicide to make sure it will not only kill the weeds involved but won’t damage the turf grass you want. For this, we use a selective herbicide. If the lawn is badly infested with weeds, a broad herbicide that kills everything may be your only choice. After the weeds are dead, you can de-thatch and reseed the lawn to start over. Sometimes, this is necessary in areas where insects or disease has killed an area of your lawn and the weeds have taken over.
Landscape Beds
This time of year we are re-visiting our garden care clients at least once a month to help manage the weeds in their mulch and rock beds. We will spray in areas where the weeds are heavy and there are not a lot of ornamental plants. If it is planted more densely and the weeds are here and there we will pull them by and as often as possible.
Help Is On The Way
Royal Creations Architectural Landscaping is developing a comprehensive lawn care program to care for your turfgrass, eliminate weeds, treat disease and insect pests, and establish a thick, lush lawn. Call our office at (816) 825-2524 to get on the lawn care subscription list, and we will contact you with the details soon.
Since the spring has been so wet, you may not have evaluated your lawn for winter damage. Now is a good time to check how your lawn is doing and set it up for success as we transition to summer.
Assessment
The first step to working on your lawn is to assess it. See if you have areas with thin or bare grass, patches of dead grass, or signs of disease or pest damage. You can use aerial images like Google Earth to make notes of your property to scale.
Clean-up
Pick up any debris on the lawn, such as branches, leaves, or dead grass. You may have to pick up after some of these strong spring storms, too. Raking your lawn with a leaf rake can help loosen matted grass so the air can circulate around it. This will help prevent fungus from growing. You can also use a verticutter if you have a lot of thatch to help loosen it up and rake out the dead areas to allow new areas to grow.
Overseeding
If you noted thin or dead patches of grass during your lawn assessment, you can overseed those places now. Do not try to seed any area where pre-emergent or “weed and feed” products have been applied in the last six months, as the herbicide will kill the germinating grass seeds.
Use a quality grass seed mix that matches the grass growing in your lawn now. It is a good idea to find one with some rye in it because that will grow quickly but will die off in a few months, letting the remaining grass take over. We often mix our seed with some compost in a wheelbarrow before spreading it. Doing this ensures good soil-to-seed contact. You will have to water your overseeded area daily until the grass grows as tall as the other parts of the lawn. If the seeds dry out once they start germinating, they will not grow.
Shady Turf Areas
Growing grass in shady areas can be a real challenge. We recommend not putting pre-emergent in these areas so you can reseed several times. Most weeds don’t grow well in the shade, so pre-emergent there isn’t very helpful. Seeding throughout the growing season will give you a better chance of establishing grass and keeping the lawn in the shade.
Fertilization
Most lawns in our area are cool season grass, such as fescue or bluegrass. For these types we typically fertilize more in fall and early spring and less in the summer when they tend to struggle. The key to keeping cool season grass looking good throughout the summer is watering regularly and not over stressing with too much fertilizer in the heat of the summer.
Watering
The new grass needs to be watered every day to germinate and grow. Established grass needs to be watered two to four times a week, depending on rainfall and how hot it is. Overwatering for long run times especially in the evenin can make your grass susceptible to root rot. We recommend more frequent watering for shorter run times to keep the lawn looking its best.
Mowing
Wait to mow the new grass until the blades are about three to four inches tall. Set the mower at three inches high to let the grass grow well and fill in the spaces. This makes it hard for weeds to grow because they cannot out compete the grass.
Weed Control
While the new grass is growing in, hand pull or spot treat any weeds that grow. Treating the whole lawn is probably not needed unless it is in very bad shape. As mentioned above, do not spread pre-emergent on turf grass growing in deep shade. Pre-emergents in the early spring and spot-spraying liquid weed control later in the season work best. Don’t apply pre-emergent in areas that you may need to seed.
Maintenance
Monitor your lawn at least weekly to check for signs of stress, disease, or pest problems. The sooner you see problems, the better because treatments are more effective when the problems are small. As summer approaches, fungus and grubs are the next thing to watch out for. Nutgrass is another weed you may see from all the spring rains. These can all be treated with the right applications.
Stay Tuned For More Lawn Services
We are adding services to manage your lawn this year. Stay tuned for more details. In the meantime, get $25 off irrigation activation until June 1. Call the office at (816) 825-2524 to schedule your activation today.
